Alsnö House – a medieval palace

While the First World War raged in Europe, Sweden faced a severe economic crisis between 1916 and 1918. During that time, an extensive archaeological project took place on Adelsö Island in Lake Mälaren. Archaeologists excavated the ruins of the medieval palace Alsnö House, located at the site known as Hovgården.
  • Viking Age

    AD 800 – AD 1100

  • Middle Ages

    AD 1050 – AD 1520

  • Modern Age

    AD 1520 – AD 2025

One of the initiators of the excavations was Ernst Klein, an editor at the Swedish newspaper Svenska Dagbladet, who helped finance the project. The donors paid out a total of SEK 42,000, equivalent to up to roughly one million SEK in today’s value. The collaboration with the newspaper also gave the project public exposure: Klein wrote a long series of articles about the excavations, and in 1917 finds from Alsnö House were exhibited at the Swedish History Museum.

The ruins of Alsnö House. Photo: Jonathan Olsson, Historiska museet/SHM (CC BY 4.0)

A short-lived palace

Alsnö House was completed in the late 13th century during the reign of King Magnus Ladulås, but it had a relatively brief existence. It is known that the king spent his summers there, yet after about a hundred years the building appears to have been abandoned and destroyed.

The youngest coins found in the ruins date from the reign of King Albrekt of Mecklenburg (mid-14th to mid-15th century). This was a time when both Sweden and Europe were again in crisis, marked by political instability, recurring plague outbreaks, and widespread farm abandonment.

Architectural illustration of brick building
Reconstruction of Alsnö castle as it would have looked in AD 1280. Illustration: Fotevikens Museum/Sven Rosborn, CC BY-SA 4.0.

The excavation and its pioneers

Two archaeologists in their twenties, Bengt Thordeman and Hanna Rydh, were responsible for the Adelsö excavations. Hanna Rydh (1891–1964) was the first woman to earn a doctorate in archaeology in Sweden. Among other work, Hanna carried out excavations at Birka and Adelsö, and her dissertation focused on disc-shaped brooches from the Viking Age. Outside of her professional life, Hanna actively fought for women’s right to equal pay for equal work, for more women in politics, and for gender equality in the workplace.

Portrait of Hanna Rydh
Portrait of Hanna Rydh. Photo: Wikimedia Commons, public domain.

During the first summer, 19 people were employed at Alsnö hus, including a crane operator. From the ruins, they excavated building details, household items, weapons, coins, locks, keys, and much more.

Ornamented red brick

Ornamented brick

On view at Historiska museet in the exhibition Sveriges historia

Old and new in the ruins

Particular finds highlighted were some small cloak brooches from 1250–1350. They are made of silver and feature upright lions, which were the heraldic emblem of the House of Folkung, as well as a mysterious monogram in the form of the stylized letter “a.”

In other house foundations, the finds were of a later date. Some objects could hardly have been considered antique at the time but were collected anyway—for example, the lid of a tobacco box from the 19th century.

Metal jewelry in two parts, one featuring an animal motif, a lion

Brooch

The brooch, or clasp, was found in the excavation at Alsnö hus, Uppland.

On view at Historiska museet in the exhibition Sveriges historia

Lack of financing stops the project

Prices more than doubled at the end of the 1910s. This may have been why archaeologist Thordeman incurred a debt equivalent to 50,000 kronor when his dissertation on the Alsnö hus building was printed. Unfortunately, the finds from the foundations of Magnus Ladulås’s palace were never published. The prehistoric finds that were uncovered were published by Hanna Rydh in 1936.

Since 1993, Alsnö hus and Hovgården, together with Birka, have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The finds from the Adelsö excavations are today kept at the Swedish History Museum and the Economy Museum – Royal Coin Cabinet.

Read more about Hanna Rydh

Doctor Hanna Rydh: A Feminist on an Adventure among the Ancient Monuments of the Mediterranean World. Cecilia Rodéhn, 2014. Medusa. Swedish Journal of Antiquity.

Thoughts on Professionalization – Hanna Rydh’s Formative Archaeological Period. Elisabeth Arwill-Nordbladh, 2005.

Women’s Power and Powerlessness: Gender, Class, and Cultural Heritage 1900–1940. Catarina Lundström. Dissertation, Umeå University, 2005.

Summary

Alsnö House, a 13th-century royal summer palace, was abandoned after about a century. Excavations were led by Bengt Thordeman and Hanna Rydh, Sweden’s first female archaeology PhD, uncovering medieval and later artefacts. The site is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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